Uttarakhand: This Land Captured My Soul
- Ajaz Shaikh
- 3 days ago
- 12 min read
Uttarakhand is a unique state, like any other state in our country, and since I had heard a lot about it, I was inquisitive about visiting it, and to my surprise, it offered me more than I expected. This land captured my soul.
The only thing you will remember is the holy breeze that hits your body and makes you realise the part that was longing for this feeling of sacredness. Let's start the journey to one of the most beautiful states of our country, “Uttarakhand” also known as “Devbhoomi” (Land of Gods).
For me, this was part of an extended long weekend trip to spend winter in Uttarakhand. So, after doing Winter Himalayan Trek - Mukta Top, I wanted to spend some time exploring the Devbhoomi. But not as a detailed plan trip kind of, I was just hoping between Rishikesh - Mussoorie - Dehradun, which turned out to be amazing.
How To Reach From Mumbai?
So here are some of the options for the people directly coming from Mumbai.
Via Train From Mumbai: Since you will be travelling from one corner of the country to another so be ready for a long train journey.
Via Flight From Mumbai: Dehradun has flight connectivity from Mumbai, but there is only two direct flights between Mumbai and Dehradun. If you plan this trip well in advance, you can get a roundway direct flight for ₹12,000 or with a layover of between 2-3 hours, you can get it for ₹10,000.
In either case, you will reach Dehradun by afternoon or late evening.
Via Delhi (The recommended way): I don't need to say anything about connectivity between Mumbai and Delhi. From Delhi, you can take the bus or train. Dehradun is very well connected by road from Delhi. The frequency of buses is quite high, and usually, a bus leaves from Delhi at night. It will take around 6-7 hrs to reach Dehradun from Delhi.
If you wish to take the train, 12687/Dehradun Express is the perfect option to reach Dehradun.
Uttarakhand Travel - Where to Stay?
The stunning Himalayas offer some of the best and unique places to stay in Uttarakhand, with its own distinct culture. Uttarakhand is a storehouse of numerous beautiful locations that one can explore and adore. Housing many picturesque hill stations, this place is an ideal destination to pick for hardcore nature lovers. Offering massive mountains covered with lush greenery, streams with white waters, as well as various admirable places to visit, Uttarakhand is an impeccable place to spend your vacations.
I suggest staying in Rishikesh so that you are centrally located between Dehradun and Mussoorie. For people on a budget trip, Zostel Rishikesh 2.0 is the best option, offers you all the amenities, a clean, hygienic room & dorm, and it's pocket friendly. The charges for the stay at Zostel are ₹549 per night for a bed in a dormitory, and if you prefer your own space, so take a private room, which will cost you ₹2199 per night.
And in case you want to spend a night in Mussoorie as I did then you can book a night stay in Hotel City Castle, a budget hotel located close to Mall Road. Mall Road is basically the happening place of the town.
Day 1: Obsessed With Rishikesh
White Water Rafting
Rishikesh, the iconic city, which is also a popular pilgrim centre, also attracts tourists from all across the world for river rafting. The foothills of the Himalayas are the place where you can see the best ever form of the River Ganga. Whitewater rafting is an adventure sport that is enough to shoot up your adrenaline. The mere thrill of this sport is best experienced here in Rishikesh. Nothing like experiencing the untamed waves of the great Ganges as you raft through the pristine white waters. Barring the monsoons, the rivers are just perfect for making river rafting in Rishikesh an unforgettable experience. The Rishikesh rafting season is from September to June. The water currents in monsoons are sharp and uncontrollable.
River rafting in Rishikesh is not just another adventure. Kaudiyal is the greatest point in Rishikesh rafting. It is mainly intended for advanced or professional rafters. This 8-9 hour long rough route passes through the banks of Shivpuri, Bramhapuri, Marine Drive and Byasi. The route is full of whirlpools, and rafters have to battle against 13 major rapids, apart from other obstructions like rocks and sharp windings.
The route from Bramhapuri to Rishikesh is the easiest track and is about 9 km from Rishikesh. This is the track mainly used for beginners since it is the lowest point and has a rapid rate of 1 or 2. Rafters have to pass through rapids like Terminator and Hilton to get to the finish point.
Keeping it short here, get a complete guide about River Rafting In Rishikesh: Riding The Rapids.
Street Food
Rafting is too much of a physical activity, so you will start feeling hungry the moment you get out of the Raft. Let me warn you also, you should avoid having a heavy breakfast before going for rafting.
Laxman, Ram, Janki Jhula & Shopping
These three bridges on the River Ganga are so famous that they have become the symbol of the town of Rishikesh. Your Rishikesh travel would be incomplete without visiting these two architectural wonders. The bridges also have religious significance.
Keeping in mind the vast number of tourists and pilgrims who visit the place every year, there are innumerable shops and markets near the starting and ending point of the bridge.
Ganga Aarti - Parmarth Niketan Ashram
Head to Parmarth Niketan Ashram - It is famous for its Ganga Aarti at dusk among tourists as well as devotees. The place is full of aarti attendees, wandering sadhus and tourists doing very obviously touristy things like getting themselves clicked with the aforementioned sadhus or in front of the enormous Shiva statue.
The evening view of the Ganga river is splendid. Religious or not, the evening aarti is quite a stirring experience.
Dinner at Freedom Cafe
The cafe culture in Rishikesh is still going strong. Among the popular, is Om Freedom Cafe. It is one of those Cafe’s in Rishikesh that has not lost its charm and has been attracting travellers for a long time. The cafe’s setting gives you the perfect views of Ganga, Lakshman Jhoola and The Mighty Himalayas. The hippie vibes start coming to you the moment you step into the café. It is one of those typical treehouse cafes with rustic roofs.
The yogi style cushion and communal seating space is something that you’ll find in many Rishikesh cafes, but here the experience elevates because of lovely food and peaceful music.
Day 2: Landour: Where tranquility meets timeless charm
Breakfast: Road House Bistro
One of the important things to kick start your day is a good breakfast. and Road House Bistro is the perfect place to start with, it was a great discovery! Gems are not found in the open, so this is the place nestled in a lane of Tapovan a wonderful eating joint.
The place has been beautifully done with a combination of low seating and normal height seating. So if you want to just put your shoes away and sit and eat comfortably this is the place. The service is superb as is the food.
The Beatles Ashram
The Beatles Ashram in Rishikesh, also known as Chaurasi Kuti, meaning “84 meditation huts.” Leased by Maharishi Mahesh Yogi in 1961 with support from an American heiress, this serene ashram covers 14 acres on a cliff, offering stunning views of the Ganga river in the peaceful Swargashram area.
Explore the fascinating property, featuring a former temple, Anand & Siddhi Bhavan residences, cozy bungalows, a kitchen, a library, Maharishi's home, and the iconic 84 meditation huts. The unique architecture and weathered charm create an atmospheric environment perfect for wandering.
After Maharishi left in 1981, the jungle reclaimed the ashram, located near the wild Rajaji National Park, home to tigers, leopards, elephants, monkeys, and more. In 2012, the ashram's walls became an art project canvas before authorities closed it. Reopened in December 2015, it is now managed by the Rajaji Tiger Reserve and is a must-visit tourist attraction in Rishikesh.
Keeping it short here, Discover Why Backpackers Are Obsessed with Rishikesh!
Chotiwala Restaurant
One of the oldest restaurants in Rishikesh, Chotiwala, is a must-visit for anyone craving homelike food. While the restaurant is labelled a multi-cuisine facility, its highlight is its typical North Indian and Garhwali dishes.
Interestingly, there is a fat man in traditional wear sitting at the entrance, which looks like a life-size mascot of the restaurant’s brand name - Chotiwala. But it's a live person and very photogenic.
Known For: Special Veg Thali, Gajar Ka Halwa (Seasonal) & Sweet Lassi
Drive: Rishikesh to Landour
The drive from Rishikesh to Landour is a Himalayan highlight, trading the spiritual buzz of the Ganges for winding mountain roads. With each turn, the scenery transforms from lush valleys to breathtaking vistas, culminating in the colonial charm of Landour.
Think quaint cafes, stunning views, and a serene escape far from the city rush. It's a journey that nourishes both the eyes and the soul.
Char Dukan
Char Dukan and Sisters Bazar are mentioned a lot by Landour tourists. But there's nothing really to see or do here besides the places I mention below.
Lotte's Homebaked Goods & Cafe and Landour Bake House are two popular cafes in Landour. Their coffees and pastries are pretty delicious. The homemade chocolates at Lotte's make for a great souvenir for people back home. Char Dukan is simply a small cluster of cafes, and all of these lie pretty close to Lal Tibba.
In the 1920s, Mrs. Lucas, wife of the pastor of Kellogg Church in Landour, joined Irene Parker, the wife of Allen Parker (principal of Woodstock School), to form a reading club. They met weekly at a Community Centre and soon created "The Landour Cookbook." This book was edited by Ruskin Bond.
Landour Sunset (Lal Tibba)
Landour is pretty popular among tourists and offers a slightly upscale vibe with its chic cafes. This place is probably best visited around sunrise or sunset. Landour is where author Ruskin Bond lives. Up until he was 85 or so, he was pretty easily accessible and made regular visits to the Cambridge Book House, where he met fans and signed autographs. You could purchase a book at Cambridge Book House, and they would get it autographed by him and courier it to you, but, unfortunately, not anymore. Nowadays, you can just see his house from the outside if you go with a guide.
Lal Tibba Scenic Point is the highest spot in Mussoorie and offers a mesmerising view of the Himalayan Range. The observation deck is small and can hold around 15 to 20 people. There are tables with chairs so you can enjoy the view while sipping coffee. There is an old telescope with a guide to help.
What's a Winterline?
One of the most exclusive phenomena to happen in Mussoorie is the winterline. And when we say it is exclusive, we mean it! The only other place in the world to actually experience the same is New Zealand. But what exactly is the winterline? It is a vibrant bar of colours you see at sunset, appearing as a second horizon floating in the skies. A bright palette of orange and yellow takes over the skies, usually in the winter months of October to February.
The warm city air gets trapped beneath the cold air from the snow-capped Himalayas up above, making it a magical sight to see.
Enjoy the hustle and bustle of the Mall Road
The Mall Road entrance, referred to as "Library Chowk" and sometimes as "Gandhi Chowk," is pretty much located at the centre of the city. It's a long stretch of road with shops dotting the sides. There are all kinds of shops selling pashmina shawls, jackets, and wooden showpieces and trinkets. You could take a casual walk, or you could opt for a Rickshaw ride too. This road offers a beautiful view of the valley.
"Cambridge Book House," where Ruskin Bond used to meet his fans, is located here.
There are Turkish ice cream stalls too. The ice cream is pretty good, and the owners will play the "ice cream trick" on you if you agree.
Mussoorie City & Staycation
Until and unless you're planning for a staycation, Mussoorie has nothing much to see
Because of the extreme ease of reaching this hill station, there are not many spots left undiscovered in Mussoorie. If you’re travelling in the season time (i.e. Summer & Winter months), be prepared for people at all locations you’ll plan on visiting.
That being said, it doesn’t mean that the vacation will be less fun. Mussoorie is often flanked as a honeymooners’ paradise thanks to the extremely scenic and romantic vibes around the region. Indeed, the green flora of the Garhwal hills, along with the distant snow-capped mountains, makes for such a delightful view.
Day 3: Doon Valley
Mussoorie Lake
This lake lies on the way from Dehradun to Mussoorie. It's a really small lake, and walking around it will take you less than ten minutes. There's boating available if you'd like to spend a little more time there. After reaching the area, you have to go down a flight of around 100 to 150 steps to reach the lake.
There are small shops around the lake selling cheap trinkets that you can browse through as well.
Robbers Caves
Robber’s Cave is locally known as Guchhu Pani. Funny name, isn’t it? It is believed that robbers used to hide there during British rule, although there's no evidence to support this. The cave features a stream running through narrow passages, approximately 600 meters long, with high walls that nearly merge in places. During monsoon, the water level can rise to knee height. At the end of the cave, there's a waterfall where visitors often bathe.
Aside from walking through the stream, there's not much else to do. At the entrance, small restaurants offer refreshments like tea, momos, and maggi, perfect for ending your visit.
Doon Darbar
Doon Darbar has gained recognition in the non-vegetarian dining scene in Dehradun. However, it might not offer the best lunch experience for tourists. Those in search of
outstanding non-veg cuisine may find greater satisfaction by exploring other venues that emphasize quality, creativity, and a welcoming environment.
Day 4: Uttarakhand - This Land Captured My Soul
Ganga Beach
On the last day, i would recommend you wake up early and go for a walk on Ganga Beach.
In Rishikesh, most of the shops don’t open till 10 am. An early morning walk on the Ganga Beach along the Ganges will make your morning extraordinary and a perfect place to do your morning yoga in the heart of the yoga capital of the world to effervescent your body.
Sayonara Uttarakhand
Experience the thrill of white water rafting on the Ganges and the tranquillity of the Beatles Ashram. Enjoy local street food, explore iconic bridges, and witness the Ganga Aarti at Parmarth Niketan Ashram. Discover Landour and Mussoorie's breathtaking landscapes, delightful cafes, and stunning views. Whether seeking adventure or peace, Rishikesh and its surroundings promise unforgettable experiences that resonate with your soul.
Uttarakhand is like the ultimate smoothie blend of adrenaline and zen, making it a must-visit for every traveler who can't decide between bungee jumping and meditating!
I had an afternoon flight, so it was best to leave from Rishikesh late morning.
Good To Know FAQs
Additional info for Gucchu Pani (Robber’s cave) visit
Opens from 7 am to 7:30 PM.
Entry fee of INR 20 per person.
Lockers are available in case you decide to get drenched in the waterfall.
Guard your camera well inside the cave.
Wear bottoms to the knees.
While Gucchu Pani is an amazing place for family picnics and student fun, do not litter the place with plastic wrappers. There is a fine of INR 200 for anyone who litters the place. Drop the trash in the dedicated trash bins near food stalls.
While one may get lured to bring in alcohol to drink in the cold water, do not, it is not allowed.
Do not carry riverbed stones as souvenirs. They belong to nature and should stay there.
Best Places to Eat in Mussoorie
Other than proffering stupendous views, Mussoorie happens to be a hub for fine cafes & restaurants serving all kinds of cuisines.
Mall Road: To start with, the Mussoorie Mall Road happens to host a lot of them, with Picture Palace and a few other areas being popular hubs as well. From contemporary cafes to quintessential mountain munchies such as boiled corn and authentic Tibetan restaurants to streetside North Indian- the variety is impressive.
Cafe Tea Totaler: From fresh fruit crepes to tacos and waffles, this cafe in Mall Road serves Italian and Continental food starting @ INR 120.
Chick Chocolate: Cosy little cafe has the hot chocolate and the truffle brownie. You can go for one of the wood-fired pizzas or the all-day breakfast options too. Mains start @ INR 200.
Cafe De Tavern: Fine dining with alcohol, right on the Mall Road. Mains start @ INR 250.
Cafe By the Way: Known for their subs and hot cocoa, the lovely ambiance and a variety of in-house books add more charm to this cafe. They also sell postcards here.
Kalsang: Try authentic Tibetan cuisine at this chain, present across India. With mains starting @ INR 170, you’ll get many options to choose from.
Lovely Omelette: This small shop on the Mussoorie Mall Road serves good chilli cheese omelette amongst other snacks. A heads up, the seating is scanty and the shop is usually full during peak hours. Omelette starting @ INR 60.
Madras Cafe: Very close to the Picture Palace in Mussoorie, the Madras Cafe serves good South Indian. The butter masala dosa is my usual order here. Mains starting @ INR 110.
Little Llama Cafe: The vibe of this cute little cafe, just a little ahead at the Mall Road is literally EVERYTHING. They serve a variety of fast food options and desserts to sort you out for a couple of hours. Mains start @ INR 250.
Remember this while visiting Mussoorie.
For private car owners (white plated vehicles): If your hotel offers parking, it's ideal to park your car there, but most hotels do not. Additionally, certain roads close to vehicles from 4 pm to 10 pm. The roads are also narrow with sharp bends, so it's advisable to park in paid parking and explore the town on foot, whether shopping and dining on Mall Road or enjoying nature on Camel’s Back Road. Although the parking is expensive, it is the better option.
For non-commercial cars (yellow plated vehicles): These vehicles must park in paid parking since they are not permitted in the main town.
Coolie Union: The ‘Coolie Union’ has a strong presence in Mussoorie. If you consider asking the hotel to send a car or staff to transport your luggage, the Union does not allow it. Even hotels rely on these coolies for their daily supplies. Therefore, you need to hire a coolie to transport your luggage to and from the hotel. These coolies are very reliable and honest, and their charges are reasonable. A coolie at Delhi railway station would charge three times more than what we paid here.